birds

i've been cursing the damn pigeons.  they are EVERY-effing-where.  and the poop on every-effing-thing, and are serious nuisances.  they've instigated war ...  building nests on our balconies.  nearly every day i have to pick up the twigs, leaves, hair, feathers, random trash and toss it because it's causing a real mess.  well, today the drama ended, and a new drama began.  they've won the war ... i've traded my anger for excitement and intrigue ... for they've laid eggs!  this is awesome!  

when the parents aren't sitting on the nest, they perch directly across, on the building next door, and keep guard.  

it's infinitely entertaining.  hopefully they hatch before we move.  we're supposed to be in a new flat by the 15th of february.  does anyone know how long it takes for baby pigeons to ripen?

i almost forgot about this guy!

rajasthan

moo

we came home to some ridiculous drama, thanks to our last broker.  he is a super shady character, and due to this and so many lies told on his part, we are in a position with him that is not ... how do i say this diplomatically?  ... he was upset, went to the police, threatened us, we then voluntarily went to the police as well, with a well-connected friend of a friend ... they called in the broker, and after hearing both sides of the story, sent the broker on his way with his tail between his legs and a SERIOUS tongue-lashing.  he shouldn't be contacting us again.  finally.

we're thankful for our amazing friends, and their willingness to help out when asked!!  the last thing i ever wanted to do here was visit a police station, and i'm so happy they were fair and pleasant and that we had someone willing to lend a hand.

the lake palace in jaipur

inaccessible these days, due to the heavy pollution caused by tourists of days past.   ...    damnit.

and then there was this guy

at amber fort in jaipur ... we walked out of the fort, after a very serious experience STRAIGHT out of a 'choose your own adventure' book, and found this guy on the lawn in front of the place.  i saw him from the front, first.  snapped a subtle photo from the hip, of the beached whale look ... and then saw what he was using for a pillow!  he had NO IDEA we were right behind him, laughing and taking pictures!

what is he doing? and why do i see guys doing this EVERYWHERE, all the time??

jantar mantar

jantar mantar is an incredible 18th-century observatory.  twelve or so enormous contraptions make up the space of maybe 100 football fields.  they are apparently dead-on accurate, measuring various astrological and astronomical things.  i spent more time here than i did in the city palace, which is at least 10 times bigger, and on many levels.  ... and yes, i know, it's a shame i don't have better photos!

udaipur

whew.  i just ate like a thousand truffles.  not good for health!

this is devi garh, in udaipur.  if you can, this is somewhere you MUST visit at least once in your life.  i mean it.

we were in udaipur for 3 days, after a 4-day jaunt to jaipur.  m had shoots in both places, and for the first time in forever ... i got to tag along.  it was fantastic.  before that, we spent 4 days in palolem, goa.  so it was beach for 4 days, followed by a quick 24 or so hours at home, and then rajasthan.  i'd never been to either rajasthan city before, and to be honest, probably won't visit jaipur again.  it was chaotic, insane, and like other rajasthan cities i've visited: filled to the brim with the hussle, the hassle, the aggressive shake-down, the grab, the plead, the beg, the guilt, it was incessant.  not a vacation destination, in my mind.  unless you want to see jantar mantar.  now, THIS is worth seeing!

birthday massage

so i'm not in pondicherry.  i was to be starting the rickshaw run today, but things did not go as i had hoped.  we were going to celebrate my bday there too, last night, hanging out and exploring pondicherry.   i quickly came up with bday plan b.

i thought it would be a nice treat to have an in-home massage, and called a woman who came highly recommended.  she showed up 30 minutes late, without calling me, was totally rude, and had no massage table.  in fact, all she had with her was a mangy, very old and very used, dirty soda bottle in which she had the 'massage oil.'  she marched into my kitchen and started looking for my cooking oil, so that she could mix the two together and rub my skin with it!  ewww!!  it smelled like rotten peanuts, and the whole flat REAKED the rest of the day.  barf.  she then wanted to massage me on the marble floor.  huff.  i realized i was 100% unimpressed with her ... never mind the fact that her tardiness left us with not enough time to even go through with the massage, i did not feel comfortable getting naked for her, and politely apologized, asking her to leave.  shit.  she turned into a little, female, indian version of the incredible hulk.  she started SCREAMING at me!  calling me 'chutia' and losing all control over herself.  i paid her for the oil (a total scam, at 400 rupees for 1/2 a soda bottle), and told her in no uncertain terms that she needed to leave my house.  i threatened to call the police (which really doesn't mean anything here, but i just didn't know what else to say!), and held the door open for her while she continued to scream.  she finally left, and i could hear her still yelling at me in the hall, and all the way down the elevator!

i then called a buncha spas, trying to book, but they were all full at such a late hour.  since we were about to head to the breach candy club, i thought i'd try booking there, too.  haha.  their response?  'i'm sorry madam, we only do ladies' massages in the mornings.'  !!  it was like 130 in the afternoon at that point.

oh, india.

the day turned out great, though, for having no real plan.  i ended up spending all day and night with great friends, great food, and great, big, huge amounts of tasty beverages.

happy new year!